Czech Travel

Helpful resources for travel to Prague, Czech Republic, and Central Europe.

WHAT YOU’LL FIND HERE AND WHAT YOU WON’T

People often ask me (or my parents) for information about traveling to Prague. My best suggestion is to purchase a guide book and follow it’s advice. The Czechs are not hiding secret and better castles from tourists.

If you’ve got more specific needs, use the Google.

Below, you will find important websites and my recommendations for where to eat, dance, and tour inside and outside of Prague.

I recently read this article on how travel to Prague has changed. You may find it useful.

IMPORTANT WEBSITES FOR TRAVEL TO PRAGUE

ACCOMMODATONS IN PRAGUE

Prague is full of great hotels for all budgets, including tons of cheaper hostels. Three suggestions: (1) stay out of the Czech-dorm system; (2) if you have a group or want a special experience, rent an apartment; (3) Priceline has served me well.

  • Hotel Suite Home Prague: This is a family friendly hotel comprised of suites that look more like apartments. I am ONLY recommending room 601, which has one of the best views of Prague on a private roof-deck.
  • One Room: This looks incredible and I will stay here as soon as I can. It is a one-room hotel on the top of Prague’s iconic and baby-clad TV tower.
  • Mosaic House: I like this hostel best, especially for people in their 20s. The close-by river bank has become a beating heart of the city.

NAVIGATING PRAGUE

Prague is a pretty easy city to navigate, with excellent public transportation that runs 24/7. I recommend buying a metro-pass, which will cover you on buses, subway, and trams for the duration of your stay. Remember to “punch” your pass when you start using it and keep it with you and accessible during travel. Ticket checkers will come around, flash a badge, and demand either a ticket or a fine.

If you don’t speak Czech, I would not recommend hailing a cab. Here are a few reputable bus companies that you can contact to order taxis on the spot: AAA, CityTaxi, Profi. There are also AAA stands around Prague, which are marked with a sign and safe to use.

Uber’s bad business practices extend to the Czech Republic. Fuck Uber.

GUIDES

I recommend the following guides. I know them personally. They are smart, communicative, and trustworthy. Please mention that I sent you. I do not receive any kickbacks (aside from an occasional beer). These are my friends.

Katka and Štěpan/Menachem Klíment: They are specialists in all things Jewish. They can guide in English and Hebrew. If they are unavailable, they can recommend someone else. You may email them at: elikatka@yahoo.com and tepan.kliment@seznam.cz.

Pavel Kuča: History and different types of Czech beers, Prague foodie tour, Psychology of Prague architecture styles, Places in Prague used in American movies, Gay history of Prague, Jewish sites in Moravia (Třebíč, Boskovice, Mikulov, Holešov) with visit to a funny old small wine producer. You may email him at pavel.kuca.CZ@gmail.com.

Prague Local Friends is a small new guiding company. My friend Katrin has started to work for them. I don’t know much about them but I trust her and know you’ll enjoy the tour.

If you want to use a guiding service and join larger groups, I recommend working with www.wittmann-tours.com. Tell Sylvie that I say hello!

When in Prague, I may be available (for hire) to guide and lecture on Jewish history. I’m particularly interested in working with university and high-school groups.

ACTIVITIES IN PRAGUE

Must Do’s:

  • Read your guidebook and surf the web. The main sights: Old Town, Prague Castle, Charles Bridge, and the Jewish Museum will fill a few days.
  • Spending more time? Visit Vyšehrad, Prague’s second castle with an art nouveau cemetery for Czech artists, and Výstaviště, exhibition grounds from over a century ago with weekly music-light-fountain performances – or watch the elderly dance there.
  • Evenings out? Check out the opera, the famous puppet theater, and the historic, experimental theater Laterna magika, which was the headquarters of Czech dissent in 1989. The architecture alone is worth the trip.

Art:

  • The National Gallery:  The modern art collection is exceptional and well curated, and the building itself is a work of art. It was also the concentration point for Prague Jews whom the Nazis deported to Terezin during the Holocaust. Those who are interested should cross the street to the Park Hotel (where Jews waited for deportation in a now demolished building) and read the plaque which hangs there. You may also want to stop there (at Cafe Jedna) for coffee and a snack. Dog and kid friendly!
  • Dox is the newest and most interesting progressive art space in Prague. Make a day trip out of going there by visiting the Pivní galerie (beer gallery, below) and Holešovice tržníce (Hološevice flee-market) as well.  Dox has an incredible roof bar/café, that’s perfect for cool summer evenings.
  • The Meet Factory – This is a multiple media space with a club, music venue, bar, theater, movie theater, galleries and artists in resident. Check it out! It is housed in an old abattoir behind the train tracks in Smichov. Watch the tracks. People get hurt.
  • The Chemistry Gallery is one of my favorite galleries in Prague. They organize cool shows and employ great people.

Shopping:

  • Most people by the following souvenirs, which are typical for the region and of high quality: crystal, garnet, wooden toys, and embroidery. You can find cheaper crystal (including costume jewelry) by visiting factory-outlet stores in towns like Jablonec.
  • I recommend investing in Czech fruit brandies like slivovice (plum), hruškovice (pear), vinovice (grape), and merunkovice (apricot).  You may also want to by the most famous and most Czech spirit, Becherovka.  Forget about buying absynth. Most of it is of terrible quality and is available now in the USA.
  • Prague has a great independent fashion scene. The best site to see what’s around and make purchases is fler (i.e. flare). I’ve listed some of my friends’ projects on my links page. If you’re lucky enough to be in Prague for Code Mode, a major warehouse show, I recommend that you go. Also, remember to check out my friend’s store, right in the center of Františkanská Garden, Tribu. Check out these sites for more information: Czech Original Fashion.
  • Design-Blok: is a great design festival and a website that will point you to talented local artists and designers.
  • For more modern art creations, go to Qubus.
  • My friend Helena makes fantastic hand-made soaps, which I’ve given as special gifts. Check out her store, Soap.
  • Design Market: This is a quarterly open-air market showing the best of local design and food. Something for everyone and a great way to pass some time.

Parks:

  • Letna – This park features a wonderful beer garden overlooking Prague. The beer is cheap. You can sit and relax until the sun sets, then retire to Fraktal (below).
  • Petrin – Take this fantastic and romantic walk right next to the castle. I recommend either starting from the top of the castle complex OR taking the cable-train up the mountain and walking down. The view is exceptional… And there are some wonderful amusements in the park. Use your guidebook to find the scale model of the Eifel Tower (with excellent views) and the Mirror Maze (Bloudiste). If you are hungry for good pub food or thirsty for craft beer and good pub food, check out the Cloister Brewery, just a short walk from the caste and Petrin.
  • Stromovka – If you have time, this is an excellent walk. There are gardens, beer gardens, roller-blade/bike rentals, and fields for sports. You can even watch the elderly dance on a regular basis.
  • Zoo/Troja Palace – The Zoo is quite excellent. If you have kids, you can even take a boat to and from the zoo from downtown.
  • Don’t forget to visit the “high castle” – vyšehrad. Who knew this city had two castles. I walk my dog there as often as I can.

Unique and Awesome:

  • There is an outdoor movie theater on Střelecký ostrov (Shooter’s Island), right in the center of Prague, during the warmer months. You can bring your own drinks or buy some on the spot. I cannot seem to find information about it online. Contact Prague Information Service if you are interested.
  • If it is raining or you are just looking for some relaxing indoor fun, try this pool hall/bowling alley/arcade in a remodeled indoor riding hall. You receive a ticket upon entry upon which they mark everything you eat, drink, and play. You pay at the end. Do NOT loose your ticket or it will cost you tons of money! The management is less than friendly.
  • The Museum of Communism is actually good. Sure, it’s a lot of liberal-democratic triumphalism, but if you can wade carefully through the propaganda, you might learn something too.
  • The Bike Asylum is an “open work room, selfservice, bike rental and bar.” The bar partners are incredible and it brings a host of wonderful people to the river front.
  • Farmers’ Markets have taken over Prague! Czechs used to complain about standing in line for bread. They told horror stories to show how terrible Communism was. Now, they gleefully stand in long lines for artisan bread to mark their transition to capitalism… I think they just like standing in line. Other organic food can be found at the Country Life Bio (organic) stores.
  • This should really be in the park section, but I like it too much. Visit this pub on St. Cross Hill, which is a fantastic park. Enjoy the beats at an underground climbing and music bar, located in a former bunker. Throughout the summer, there are excellent festivals in this park. Look at the Czech press in English for more information.

DAY AND OVERNIGHT TRIPS

  • Pilsen/Plzeň – Just a short bus or train ride from Prague, Plzeň is home to the Pilsner Urquell Brewery (the best beer tour I have ever been on) and the second-largest synagogue in Europe, the Great synagogue. This is the city where Paton’s army stopped in 1945 and it has associated museums. The best way to get to Plzeň is with the Student Agency bus service and it is possible to do both tours in one day.
  • Kutna Hora – St. Barbora is an incredible 13th century cathedral. The city also boasts an underground church made of bones – think the Paris subways. Right across from the church is an incredible game restaurant, if memory serves me right. I recently went to the sauna there and HIGHLY recommend it. They have “ceremonial” events on the weekends.
  • Karelstejn – This castle used to house the Crown Jewels. It is quite touristy, but it is a lovely walk in the country not too far from Prague. There are nice restaurants and pubs along the way.
  • Karlovy Vary (Carlesbad) – Now home to a large Russian population, the city was a fancy, German-speaking spa-town before WWII. You can still walk along the river, sipping the healing waters, take treatments, eat their signature wafers and grab a good meal. If you’ve got the cash, staying in the Hotel Pupp is a treat! They have a nice casino. Good luck!
  • Česky Krumlov – A beautiful medieval/Renaissance town on the Vltava River, just a few hours south of Prague. It is very romantic. I suggest the indoor BBQ at Šatlava for dinner. The steaks are out of this world. Check out the Eggenberg Brewery too. Otherwise, I’d eat at any of the restaurants along the river. In terms of accommodations, there are some really 5-star hotels. You’re on your own… But, if you want a nice non-hostel place with good views, I suggest Pension u malého Vitka or the Edward Kelly Hotel (which I prefer).

THINGS JEWISH

  • Use Wittmann Tours: www.wittmann-tours.com. The owner is Sylvie Wittmann. She is a friend of mine. If you know me, drop my name. (I do not get a kick back.)

The Jewish Museum:

Founded in 1906, the Jewish Museum was one of the most visited tourist attractions, even during the period of Communist Rule.

  • The museum is better with a guide, but you don’t need a personal tour.
  • Morning is probably best, to avoid lines.
  • Trust your guide. You may not have to see every bit of the exhibit to have an excellent experience. On the other hand, you should read about the museum in advance to ensure that you hit everything you want to. The museum is housed in a number of synagogue buildings. All but one is in the Jewish Quarter, Josefov. I would recommend visiting the other, the Jubilee or Jerusalem-street Synagogue. Not only was it recently restored, but it also houses and excellent exhibit about Czech Jews during the period of Communist-Party rule.
  • I would suggest having lunch at Kolkovna after the tour. It is across from the Spanish Synagogue. If you tell your guide in advance, you can arrange to end the tour there.

Additional Jewish sites in Prague – if you have more time:

  • Olsansky (Ole’ shansky) cemetery – The modern/active Jewish cemetery. Learn about the cultural and economic richness and multi-nationalism of the prewar Jewish community. See Kafka’s grave and learn how the contemporary Czech Jewish community memorializes their loved ones.
  • Television Tower and Zizkov cemetery – The Prague Jewish community began using this cemetery in the 18th century and it soon became their main burial ground after the closing of the Old Jewish cemetery. The communists destroyed most of it and built a giant modern-looking TV tower there. You can take an elevator to the top for an excellent panoramic view of Prague and get some ice-cream in the café. The regime preserved a portion of the cemetery with important graves, including that of the Noda Beyehuda.
  • Smichov Synagogue – This modern synagogue now houses the archives of the Jewish Museum. You cannot go inside, except to visit an antique bookstore of marginal quality. However, it is architecturally interesting in and of itself, because it has been incorporated into a giant mall structure. If you decide to go to a movie, you can combine that with this trip.

Religious Services – BRING YOUR PASSPORTS FOR SECURITY PURPOSES!!!

  • Old-New Synagogue – This is the main synagogue of the Prague Jewish community and it is the oldest active synagogue in Europe (late 13th century). It is orthodox and the women’s section is behind a thick stone wall with small opening cut into it. The congregation is Orthodox, but it is fairly liberal. They are just stuck with an incredible and historic building. Women can usually go into the main hall after services, but you can also see it as part of your JM tour. Friday-night services start at sundown and the times are posted on the door. They also have daily morning services around 7:30am
  • Jeruzalemska/Jubilee Synagogue (1301 Jeruzalemska Street) – This is a very sweet community which survived communism. It is liberal orthodox. I would recommend visiting them for Shabbat Shacharit.
  • Bejt Simcha – This is a strong community of liberal Jews officially aligned with the Progressive movement out of England. They are extremely welcoming of foreigners and maintain their own premises. I highly recommend them.
  • Bejt Praha – The “Prague Open Jewish Community,” meets every Friday night in the beautiful Spanish synagogue. Services are egalitarian and based loosely on an American liberal structure. Rabbi Narow (USA/Sweeden) visits occasionally.
  • Masorti/Conservative – Rabbi Ronald Hoffberg (USA) manages a small community of mixed Czech and American backgrounds. Prayers are conducted mostly in Hebrew, but also in Czech. All announcements, etc. are translated into both Czech and English. They meet on the second floor of the Jewish town hall (Maiselova 18) right next to the Old New synagogue. They meet at 6pm in the fall/winter and 7pm in the spring/fall.
  • Chabad – American-born Rabbi Manes Barash leads a small, though committed community. The synagogue predominantly serves Israeli and American ex-pats, as well as foreigners and tourists. They throw a killer Purim party.

Jewish Day Trips outside of Prague:

  • Terezín/Thersienstadt – The concentration camp for the Jews of Bohemia and Moraviah. I would suggest taking a tour with Wittmann Tours. This can be a day trip, which will leave you plenty of time in the evening to unwind and enjoy the city.
  • Other trips include Boskovice and Třebic. Both of these towns have preserved Jewish Ghettos (a Moravian and not Bohemian feature). You can do them on their own if you have a good guidebook and think you can handle the train/bus arrangements. Otherwise contact Wittmann Tours.
  • This is an informational database of Jewish cemeteries in Moravia: Moravian Jewish Cemeteries.

RESTAURANTS

Travelers’ hint: Make lunch your biggest meal of the day. Most Czech restaurants have excellent lunch deals. You can usually stuff yourself on high-quality food for 100-120 Crowns. You can eat off the streets in the evening. These aren’t a list of all of the restaurants in Prague, just the ones that I like.

Check out these food blogs about Prague:
Bohemian Bites and Czech Out Channel

Soup:

There are many soup shops in Prague. My friend owns this one and I like it.

The Polevkarna (Soup-Works, my translation) serves fantastic soups and breads. Unfortunately, they only post their daily menus in Czech. Head down there and taste for yourself.

Vegan and Vegetarian:

Eat what you like… But you might as well feel good about it! Prague is said to have the most vegan a vegetarian restaurants per-capita in Europe. This list is not nearly exhaustive. It includes only my favorites and a few restaurants with multiple branches that are good to know about in a pinch. If you want a more exhaustive list visit http://www.happycow.com or download the Happy Cow app. It works wonderfully in Europe.

If you are looking to purchase food in a market, remember “bio” means “organic.”

  • Herbivore: Right on the river just steps from Vitoň, this cafe serves a delicious (if slightly pricy) salad and hummus bar. They also have a shop where you can get tons of delicious vegan and organic foods.
  • Moment: Right off of Jiřího z Poděbrad, this cafe is wonderful! They serve good coffee and hierba matte. The food is 100% vegan and delicious. I always get the same thing, the cheeseburger on a bagel (so good!). I’m not a fan of their bacon.
  • Pastva: This is my new favorite vegan restaurant. Make a reservation.
  • Plevel: Fantastic vegan restaurant with great beer. They’ve moved away from making vegan versions of typical Czech dishes and the food got better.
  • Lehka Hlava: Vegetarian and vegan food on a cozy street, just off of Old Town, and around the corner from Charles Bridge. This place can be very romantic.
  • Maitria: Same owners as Lehka Hlava and right off of Old Town, around the corner from Tin Church. Their lunch deals are great. Try their vegan gulaš or svičková.
  • Vegtral: The only vegetarian beer-garden restaurant in Prague, just a few blocks from Fraktal and owned by the same people. It’s in Letna, a nice neighborhood, with great restaurants, snuggled between two great parks.
  • Beas: Pronounced Beh-aas. This is excellent South-East Asian inspired buffet, where you pay by weight (of the food). Multiple locations around Prague.
  • EtnoSvět: Decent (and large) vegan and vegetarian lunch buffet. Read the labels carefully. I ended up with dairy on my plate accidentally.
  • Loving Hut: 100% vegan food from Asia. It’s not the best food in town, but there are a number of locations and tons of options. There’s a pretty big shop at the largest branch next to bilá labuť.
  • Country life: Nice vegetarian buffet with increasingly tasty food at multiple locations. They also run “bio” (organic) markets. Unfortunately, their website is only in Czech. Click this link for outside info and reviews.
  • RadostFX: Very good food in an artistic environment. They have regular art installations, a great CD store, and a great dance club in the basement. If you are young and new in town, this is a must visit!

Czech Fare:

OK. You are in Prague. Make an exception and eat something traditional.

  • U Sadlu: For my part, this is the best Czech restaurant in town. It’s classic Central European cuisine and the beer flows like water!!! I recommend the duck with a plate of mixed dumpling and the pork ribs.
  • Kolkovna: This one of a number of restaurants operated by the Pilsner Urquell brewery. Not only is the food incredible, but they serve “tank (cistern) beer.” It’s as fresh and as delicious as Czech beer gets. This branch is located right across from the Spanish Synagogue, which makes it an excellent place to take a break while touring the Jewish Quarter.
  • Klašterní pivovar serves excellent food and their own home-brewed beer. It’s a wonderful way to cool down after you’ve climbed up and beyond the castle hill.
  • Lokal: What happens when one of Prague’s most interesting and high-quality restaurant groups opens it’s own Czech pub? You end up waiting hours for a table at Lokal. make a reservation. Enjoy the beer, tripe soup, and steak tartar.
  • U Marianského obrazu serves excellent Czech food for reasonable prices, just steps from the TV tower and Palac Akrapolis.

Kosher Food: 

Please note that eating meat is unethical, selfish, and terrible for the planet, even if it’s kosher. To that end, please see the website or contact the restaurants for hechsher info.

  • The Jewish Community has a cafeteria that serves daily lunches and all meals on Shabbat and festivals. Please contact them directly if you are interested in eating there. You must order in advance. They usually have a vegetarian option.
  • Shalanu: Dairy restaurant. I saw pizza listed. This is Chabad owned.
  • King Solomon: This is by far the best kosher restaurant in Prague. They also sell kosher food products through their website and at their central location.
  • Dinitz: Also a tasty option. The prices are somewhat lower than King Solomon, but the offerings are also less grand.
  • Chabad Kosher Grill: Meat…
  • There are two kosher markets in Prague: here and here.

Italian

  • Ichnusa: This is some of the best food in Prague. NOT TO BE MISSED! They have wonderful lunch deals, but it is also a great place for a romantic or family dinner.
  • Danico: Right downtown and fantastic.
  • Pizza
    • Ambiente makes great pizza.
    • Pepe Neros makes the best pizza in town.
    • Modrá zahrada offers a wide selections of yummy pizza and salads in a number of locations.

Asian (All of Asia!)

Czechs love Asian food. It’s true. One of the most wonderful legacies of communism is that Prague and the Czech Republic are home to a long-standing community Asian immigrants. Enjoy the food.

  • Modrý zub serves excellent Thai food in multiple locations. Great veggie options. I like the spicy tofu dish and the string-beans.
  • The Curry Palace is my new favorite and its just a few blocks from the Letna beer garden. I can take some heat and the phall was too much for me!
  • Pind serves up some of the best Indian food in town. It serves an all-you-can-eat buffet at lunch and delicious dinners. I recommend it for dates and fun with friends.
  • Pho has taken over Prague!!! This place, on the square Jiřího z Poděbrad serves up some of the best… The church on the square is a must-see for architecture buffs.
  • Sapa: If you have time and want to eat fantastic Vietnamese food in an insane environment, head out to this giant market to eat and learn about “dumping” in Europe’s “gray market.”

Cafés, Wine-bars, and Good Beer

Prague is known neither for wine nor coffee. And, after your first 1,000 Pilsners, you may be ready for another kind of beer. This should help

  • Sladkovsky Café is a great place to eat or just have a cup of coffee or a drink. They serve good food with veggie options.
  • Mama Coffee serves the best coffee in town. They are environmentally responsible and sell fair-trade beans… They also serve food at their many locations.
  • Café Ermitage was just opened by the proprietor of my favorite bar. Check it out.
  • Café Blatouch is a nice place to sit and work for a few hours… It’s just down the road from the best Mexican restaurant in Prague.
  • Lit. Café is a hidden coffee shop, right off of Old Town. It’s quite popular with students due to its reasonable prices, Bernard beer, and pickled cheese.
  • Beer Museum: Tired of pislner beer? Me too. It’s OK and there is help… Czech help. This bar, which is kind of awful to be at, serves up cold drafts of lesser-known Czech beers of many styles. What’s your favorite? Where was your hotel?
  • Pivní galerie: Want to sample even more Czech beers from around the country? I certainly do, especially because the big brands have gone corporate, predictable, and bland. Stop by this store on your way to the Dox art space (below).

BARS AND NIGHTLIFE

Bars

  • Fraktal: Good lord, I cannot remember – really – all of the fun I’ve had in this place. They serve great food and drink in a nice environment, which is great for hanging out or partying hard. It’s right off of Letna park, which which makes it a nice place to retire once the sun sets.
  • Café v Lesi is my favorite places to drink, relax, and dance. They have WONDERFUL homemade plumb brandy (slivovice) and the owner keeps the atmosphere just right. No tourists. There is a nice café with tapas around the corner.
  • Duende I love this place too! Very hip, especially for a bar right around the corner from the Charles Bridge. They have homemade fruit brandies of all types. Stop in to work at lunch and sample some of the best pickled cheese in Prague. Just as for “Nakladeny hermelin.”
  • NoD: Not sure if you are hip or a hipster? It doesn’t matter here. This centrally-located bar is a great place to find out about ongoing artistic and fringe events and to meet interesting people.
  • Cross: Enjoy your time with this younger, punky-artsy crowd. They often have installation events. The restaurant serves delicious food, including vegan pizza.
  • Kyklop: This is a small, foreigner-friendly, Croatian bar in Letna. I’ve always had a good time there.

Dancing

  • Roxy: This internationally known club is great for dancing hard. Somehow, they make gritty hip. The music ranges, but is primarily techno. They are also a great concert venue.
  • See Cross, above.
  • Friends: The music in Prague’s famous gay bar is not great, but people DANCE!
  • Akropolis is both a venue for shows and a dance bar. I used to hang out there quite a bit and not just because I lived around the corner.
  • RadostFX throws (or used to throw) some of the most important dance events of the year.
  • Meet Factory: This experimental art space, literally behind the train tracks, puts on some of the most interesting and cool shows. Check out educational parties.

 

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